Monday, February 23, 2009

Pompeii and Herculaneum: Uncovering the Past

Pompeii
A 40 minute train ride from Naples is the archeological site of Pompeii, a city that once flourished at the base of Mount Vesuvius. In 79 AD, Mount Vesuvious (a giant volcano!!!) errupted after more than 2 days of warnings (in the form of a 30 km high cloud of ash coming from the crater of Vesuvius). The town of Pompeii was completely covered in volcanic ash and was basically forgotten, until the late 1600s. Excavations began (and are still taking place) and have uncovered incredible artefacts and have helped archeologists gain a great understanding into the lives of 1st Century Romans. Most of the statues/mosaics/frescos are now housed in the Archeology museum in Naples (see Naples post for pics).

This is the sight that greets you upon your entrance. We're not sure how much is original and how much has been added to help in the preservation. Either way, it is still interesting to note some of the aspects of daily life.



This wall holds the remnants of a frescoe.




The Temple of Apollo. Temples (to worship both gods and people) were plentiful.




A scene showing the sacrifice of a bull. This white marble plinth is located in a temple to worship either Vespasian or Octavian (Roman Emperors had a thing about becoming god-like).

Note the three bumps in the road. This is a Roman bridge. The cobblestones, rutted by wagon wheels, sometimes flooded with rain water (and I'm sure a lot of other not to clean things). These stones could be used to cross the road, without getting your pretty little feet wet.

My favourite, and the most scandalous of the area, is the Lupanar, or brothel. This building is the only one in Pompeii that was purpose built as a "love house". Note the bed with the pillow. Yes it's brick and not the usual comfort we'd expect, but it was covered with a matress. (and the beds in Europe are not that comfortable anyway).


The brothel even had paintings to display the positions or services offered (both hetero and homosexual). Consider this to be an ancient sex-menu. 'Would you like fries with that?'
Told you it was interesting.

Sex did not stop in the brothel. I love the group of Japanese tourists staring at this carving of a phallus (penis as we say). They seemed confused at first, but when they got it...giggles abound!!!
Another interesting thing to note about Ancient Romans was that there was a belief that a phallus could ward off the evil eye. In order to keep a business or a home safe and prosperous, many people would paint or carve phalluses (phalli??). The bigger the better. Apparently size does matter. Who can blame them though, we all know that finding/having a large phallus is really about luck.


but giggles aside, Vesuvius did not just preserve this ancient Roman town, it also caused quite real destruction. Here are just a few of the bodies (now in plaster cast) that fell prey to the strength of this mighty beast.
When the archeologists found Pompeii, they also found the negative spaces where bodies would have been. Those who remained in Pompeii that night, were suffocated by the toxic gases, and then covered by the ash. Over time, their bodies decomposed, leaving a cavity between their skeletons and the ash (keep in mind it hardened into solid rock). Archeologists were then able to pour plaster into the cavity to fill the space that would have been flesh. These casts, show the last pose (complete with facial expressions) of those who perished. As the plaster ages and chips away, parts of the skeleton can be glimpsed.


A Roman arena at the edge of Pompeii.


The houses in Pompeii are now recorded according to specific details that make them unique from the others. This house is known for the mosaic you see at the back of the garden; the Marine Venus.



This is a statue found in the courtyard of an unmarked home. Note that its made of bronze and that it is of incredible detail.


While a big dingle was mostly about luck and protection, others had a more philosophical perspective. This man, the god of fertility, is weighing his against a bag of money, apparently he saw the need for both things to be equal. You find whatever meaning you'd like.

Herculaneum, a town much smaller than Pompeii, is on the other side of Vesuvius. It too was preserved by the eruption. Herculaneum (named after Hercules) was covered by mud....very hot mud. There was also a lot of it---like 50 m. That's 150 feet deep!!!! It is very well preserved in comparison to Pompeii and gave a little more insight into some otherwise unknown details.



The top of this picture shows a frescoe and the bottom the sketch. This displays how the heat of the mud incinerated the paint and plaster. It also helps us understand that a fresco was painted, first by carving the sketch, and second by applying plaster on a small area and painting it before it dried. Having the paint and plaster dry together, made the painting one with the wall.

Many of the houses in Herculaneum have had roofs added to aide in preservation.

These 5 arches, show the openings to boat houses and storage areas that lined the port. Where you see grass, would have been beach. Many people fled here to protect themselves, however they were covered with mud just the same.


Many houses were two stories and would have had balconies overlooking the street. The streets here were much thinner, as the steep hill and the lack of a merchant community did not require people to cart wagons around---hence no need for big streets, and no ruts in the road here.

you can see the volcanic mud/rock that covered the orginal bars on this window.

This is another frescoe found almost perfectly preserved in a home.

This black wall, is actually a wooden screen. One of the coolest things about Herculaneum is that a large portion of the 0riginal wood still remains. It is 2000 years old and severly charred, but it is there!

We thoroughly enjoyed both visits, and highly recommend seeing both to gain a good understanding of the time. It really is a shame that this civilization was lost. The art was amazing and the structures were profound. The Romans were very advanced in the 1st Century. Sadly, we're not all that much further ahead than they were (yes, we've got electricity and motors), but it's incredible to think what society would be, had they been able to continue at this pace for the next 2000 years.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

Sorrento is a city along Italy's west coast. When anyone talks about this part of Italy it is always in regards to the beauty of this area, so we had to see for ourselves. It did not disappoint.
Sorrento is covered in orange and lemon trees. The oranges here are different too---they are partly red (I think they're blood oranges). They are beyond delicious!
The real beauty of Sorrento is in the water.

Though is was nice, it certainly wasn't warm (we wore hats and gloves)


that is Mount Vesuvius as seen from Sorrento.





One of the main reasons for going to Sorrento is to see the Amalfi Coast.

We took the bus to Amalfi from Sorrento. The trip was only 2 hours, but it was the longest 2 hours of my life. Why?
2 reasons:
1. Apparently I get car sick
and
2. I was convinced I was going to die (Ok that's a little dramatic, but seriously, it was scary)



A picture from the bus: note the extreme height between the vehicle and the water. Also, note the curves in the road (over 200) and the incredible lack of height in the wall that is made to protect us from falling into said water (consider strength when compared to a bus). Put all this together with a driver who likes to accelerate at all times, of course forcing him to break before turning (and before driving off into the water below) and it made for a nervous pair of Canadians.


The town of Positano, with its white homes perched on the rock face.





The beach at Amalfi



Cliffs in Amalfi


the main church in Amalfi




Amalfi and Sorrento were gorgeous! The bus ride back from Amalfi was easier since we knew what to expect, and instead of sitting on the side with the good view...we hid from view. We did have a silly experience on the way back. To get to Amalfi from Sorrento you have to take a bus and switch to another bus (after a 2 km walk). When leaving, we made sure to find out when the connecting bus would be and we were told it would leave 15 minutes after we arrived, so we'd be fine. We got to the transfer point (us and 10 others) and noted that the sign said a bus would be there in just a few minutes. We waited and finally a bus did arrive. We were very excited that we caught the connection, but then had a little lesson into Italy/European concepts of time and travel. Though the bus was there, and the driver was not dead, we were told the bus was not leaving for 2 hours. 2 hours!!! So we day there and waited for 2 hours until such time that he was ready. We say it was runny on 'ish' time. You know, 'it'll leave at 2:30-ish.'


Thursday, February 19, 2009

Naples: the armpit by the sea

Naples. A city so unique you either hate it or love it...or both in one day.
When we arrived in Naples it was certainly the 'hate it' emotion. Lost in piles of garbage, with streets congested by 'vendors' selling bootleg designer products, it was certainly alot to take in. To top it off, we were warned about the danger lurking outside (street thug, pick pocket stuff). It didn't sound like much fun, so we decided to hit the sack and experience it on a full night's sleep. And what an experience it was.
outside the Duomo

inside. This Cathedral has foundations from the ancient Roman and medieval times.



we were intrigued that someone thought to cover over this painting. It's been found now...and is several hundred years old.
Before going to visit Pompeii, we went to the Acheological museum where all of the uncovered sculptures, mosaics and artifacts are now housed.


This is a sculpture from Herculaneum. Both Pompeii and Herculaneum were covered in volcanic ash during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79AD. Uncovered for the first time in the late 1500s, these two cities have given a great insight into the socities of the time.




An unbelievable marble statue. The maroon is not painted, but another piece of marble.








a jug found in Pompeii. Note the bubbling caused by the extreme heat.



actual armour worn by actual Gladiators



a mosaic made of extremely tiny pieces of marble.



another mosaic



this building is a pretty clear example of Naples. It's beautiful in structure and with one coat of paint would be awesome...but no one has painted it yet...so it's crap.



Pallazo Reale



Piazza Ples


Castel Nuovo. Built by a king to take over for the old castle (Castel D'Ovo), it is now where the city council meets.
The best views of Naples, however, come from the area near the sea. Here they are.














Once you get past the initial griminess of it, Naples is pretty cool. It's got the dodgy area near the train station, the amazing shopping streets and one of the most beautiful waterfront views I've ever seen in a big city. Naples is a little like China...shocking if not expected, but very cool once you know. Naples is: the home of pizza, the most multicultural city we've seen in Italy, one of the cheapest places to shop, and brimming with character. Rough on the edges, but well worth the trip.
From here we go to Sorrento to visit Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast